Accommodation: The Hotel Terrasol is a delightful, well-located and reasonably price (~$30) hotel near the centre run by Victor and Katya (no, not Russian).
Tours: Local tour operators are not a bad way to see the sights, many of which require boats and or long day trips. Tierra Tour seems to be the dominant local player, but I also had a good experience with "Va Pues".
Food: The best meal I had was at Jardin de Orion, but "Imagine" looked to have fantastic food (& great margaritas). I found the recommended "Tercero Ojo" to be very disappointing.