ODESSA
Food:
Restaurants tend to be much better quality in the centre of town, rather than in Arcadia.
Accommodation:
Keep in mind Arcadia (where the beach and partying action is in the summer) is about 20mins from the centre of town, so depending on your interests, you’ll need to stay accordingly. My favourite in Arkadia is the Morskoy (~$100), but be warned, it’s RIGHT next to some of the biggest nightclubs, so unless you’re out partying, you won’t get much sleep.
Nightlife:
In Summer, all the action is at Arkadia. There are a strip of nightclubs along the beachfront. My pick is Ibiza, followed by Itaka, but you can find anything to suit your tastes.
KIEV
Accommodation:
As it’s difficult in Kiev to find reasonably-priced hotels, it is common to rent apartments. We had terrible experiences with Partner Guesthouse, who are an apartment firm, so do NOT recommend them.
Restaurants and Nightlife:
We had great meals at Shinook and Tsarskoe Tselo (both Ukranian), and Avalon is always a good bet for a decent meal and some drinks on an off-night.
Kiev has rocking nightlife, Buddha Bar has just opened for high-end cocktails (Safe is also good), Tsar and Barsky are top high-end clubs, and Patiba is still going strong for nightclubbing in a not quite so pasfusny environment.
LVIV
Accommodation:
We had good accommodation at Hotel Opera, a high-end pick.
Restaurants & Nightlife:
Partisan (“Kryvka”) bar is a must-do (but you’ll need a password at the door, and don’t try speaking Russian in there!)
POPOVKA
You’re kidding, right? ;-)
YALTA
Accommodation:
Highly recommend Hotel Bristol ($160) for amenities and location (& it’s duck-free (we checked)).
Monday 28 July 2008
Sunday 20 July 2008
Armenia
Accommodation:
James & I liked the location and amenities of the Hotel Avia Trans, located really near the centre ($120), but be advised it doesn't have internet in the rooms as advertised.
Restaurants and Nightlife:
There are a bunch of fun places down in the riverside canyon (the Hrazdan), which are fun family places where everyone goes to eat lots of Armenian (read: Georgian/Russian/Azeri) food and get drunk and dance. It's a really fun scene, but shuts down by midnight. A place we liked was called Parvana. Apart from that, on a Friday night, we couldn't find any nightclubs, it's really a cafe scene, which is pleasant during the day, but quiet at night.
Transport:
Most convenient way to get to/from Yerevan from Tbilisi is by taxi, we paid $100 for the ~250km trip, including various sidetrips including Haghpat.
James & I liked the location and amenities of the Hotel Avia Trans, located really near the centre ($120), but be advised it doesn't have internet in the rooms as advertised.
Restaurants and Nightlife:
There are a bunch of fun places down in the riverside canyon (the Hrazdan), which are fun family places where everyone goes to eat lots of Armenian (read: Georgian/Russian/Azeri) food and get drunk and dance. It's a really fun scene, but shuts down by midnight. A place we liked was called Parvana. Apart from that, on a Friday night, we couldn't find any nightclubs, it's really a cafe scene, which is pleasant during the day, but quiet at night.
Transport:
Most convenient way to get to/from Yerevan from Tbilisi is by taxi, we paid $100 for the ~250km trip, including various sidetrips including Haghpat.
Friday 18 July 2008
Georgia
Accommodation:
In Tbilisi, James & I recommend the ATA Hotel (~$70/night) for it’s comfortable rooms, air-con, great value, and fantastic location near the Old City, but it’s not easy to find, and they don’t speak much English.
Restaurants & Nightlife:
When in Georgia- eat Georgian food! In Tbilisi, we had a great meal at “Shadow of Metekhi” on the deck overlooking the river. Another great place for Georgian dinner, drinks, or hookah was the roofdeck at Kalakuri. For a lively scene, wifi, and a decent glass of Georgian wine, try Kala bar in the Old City, on a pedestrian walkway surrounded by other lively restaurants and bars.
In Tbilisi, James & I recommend the ATA Hotel (~$70/night) for it’s comfortable rooms, air-con, great value, and fantastic location near the Old City, but it’s not easy to find, and they don’t speak much English.
Restaurants & Nightlife:
When in Georgia- eat Georgian food! In Tbilisi, we had a great meal at “Shadow of Metekhi” on the deck overlooking the river. Another great place for Georgian dinner, drinks, or hookah was the roofdeck at Kalakuri. For a lively scene, wifi, and a decent glass of Georgian wine, try Kala bar in the Old City, on a pedestrian walkway surrounded by other lively restaurants and bars.
Tuesday 15 July 2008
Azerbaijan
Accommodation:
Baku is expensive, locals exploit the limited accommodation options and wealth gap to obtain high rates. In the Old City, we found Old City Inn to be comfortable and helpful, at ~$140/night for a double.
Restaurants:
Karavan Sera was an overrated but decent Azeri meal in the Old City. Beyrut provided a delicious Lebanese dinner.
Sights:
Be warned there are no tour agencies or operators in Baku, so sightseeing outside Baku needs to be arranged through independent negotiations with taxi drivers, or via hotels, which tends to be very expensive (we were quoted $350 to go to the mountain village, and $200 for car & driver to go to the main sights within 100km of Baku). I do NOT recommend renting a car and driving yourself, as local traffic is crazy, police are over-enthusiastic, and most sights are well off main roads and not signposted.
Baku is expensive, locals exploit the limited accommodation options and wealth gap to obtain high rates. In the Old City, we found Old City Inn to be comfortable and helpful, at ~$140/night for a double.
Restaurants:
Karavan Sera was an overrated but decent Azeri meal in the Old City. Beyrut provided a delicious Lebanese dinner.
Sights:
Be warned there are no tour agencies or operators in Baku, so sightseeing outside Baku needs to be arranged through independent negotiations with taxi drivers, or via hotels, which tends to be very expensive (we were quoted $350 to go to the mountain village, and $200 for car & driver to go to the main sights within 100km of Baku). I do NOT recommend renting a car and driving yourself, as local traffic is crazy, police are over-enthusiastic, and most sights are well off main roads and not signposted.
Sunday 13 July 2008
Romania
Accommodation:
Brasov: The Bella Muzica (www.bellamuzica.ro) is a delightful, recently renovated 3-star right on the main square (~70E/night). It's beautifully appointed and perfect for couples (which I wasn't).
Bucharest: Recommend the Hotel Rembrandt (www.rembrandt.ro), in the Historicla district (~80E/night). Again recently renovated, great service, and well-located for tourist stuff.
Restaurants and Nightlife:
Charme is a nice place for a drink and snacks, in the historic centre.
Fratelli is a hopping and packed nightclub with a good mix of friendly locals and reasonably upscale crowd. Music is a mix of recent pop mixes, but later in the night trends to local music and 80's hits.
Bamboo is a more "Moscow-style" nightclub, with the usual accoutrements (go-go dancers, lasers, girls in microskirts, local minigarchs, etc). Has great location on lake and has swimming pools.
Brasov: The Bella Muzica (www.bellamuzica.ro) is a delightful, recently renovated 3-star right on the main square (~70E/night). It's beautifully appointed and perfect for couples (which I wasn't).
Bucharest: Recommend the Hotel Rembrandt (www.rembrandt.ro), in the Historicla district (~80E/night). Again recently renovated, great service, and well-located for tourist stuff.
Restaurants and Nightlife:
Charme is a nice place for a drink and snacks, in the historic centre.
Fratelli is a hopping and packed nightclub with a good mix of friendly locals and reasonably upscale crowd. Music is a mix of recent pop mixes, but later in the night trends to local music and 80's hits.
Bamboo is a more "Moscow-style" nightclub, with the usual accoutrements (go-go dancers, lasers, girls in microskirts, local minigarchs, etc). Has great location on lake and has swimming pools.
Wednesday 9 July 2008
Istanbul
Accommodation:
Highly recommend the Zeynep Sultan (http://www.zeynepsultanhotel.com/) for 59E/night. Clean and friendly place with fantastic location (Next to Aya Sofia in Sultanahmet), but free wireless access doesn't reach all rooms. Also great is the Hippodrome Hotel (http://www.hippodromehotel.com/) for 65E/night, next to the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet. Zeynep has slightly better location.
Restaurants & Nightlife:
Reina has a fantastic "Modern Turkish" (Turkish+Mediterranean) menu right on the Bosporus, and turns into a happening (but young) nightclub most nights (particularly Tue/Thu/Fri/Sat). It also hosts a great Chinese restaurant, but both are pricey. Also pricey, on the water at Ortakoy, is Anjelika, with stunning open-air location, decent food, and good crowd (but more of a bar/restaurant, less of a club).
In a similar vein- Sunset has great drinks and view (especially at sunset, surprisingly enough), but Ulus 29 has to take my pick as best food of the upscale bar/lounge/restaurants.
For a more relaxed (and cheaper) traditional Turkish meal, try Hamdi's near the New Mosque. Their flatbreads and kebabs are delicious, and they have a beautiful rooftop deck overlooking the Golden Horn.
Other recommendations I didn't have a chance to try:
360 - restaurant/bar in center of town on the top floor of a residential building with great (360) views of all the key sites. Turns into a little bit of club after dinner.
Leyla/Sortie - huge open air place on the water with a number of restaurants there and a big club on the water (there is a good turkish place there too).
Mangerie - very cute little cafe and restaurant in Bebek (part of town on water with a marina where lots of smaller yachts are moored). Top floor of a building with great views. Good for lunch, coffee or dinner.
Lucca - similar to above. Also in bebek.
Iskele - very good traditional fish restaurant on the water.
Highly recommend the Zeynep Sultan (http://www.zeynepsultanhotel.com/) for 59E/night. Clean and friendly place with fantastic location (Next to Aya Sofia in Sultanahmet), but free wireless access doesn't reach all rooms. Also great is the Hippodrome Hotel (http://www.hippodromehotel.com/) for 65E/night, next to the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet. Zeynep has slightly better location.
Restaurants & Nightlife:
Reina has a fantastic "Modern Turkish" (Turkish+Mediterranean) menu right on the Bosporus, and turns into a happening (but young) nightclub most nights (particularly Tue/Thu/Fri/Sat). It also hosts a great Chinese restaurant, but both are pricey. Also pricey, on the water at Ortakoy, is Anjelika, with stunning open-air location, decent food, and good crowd (but more of a bar/restaurant, less of a club).
In a similar vein- Sunset has great drinks and view (especially at sunset, surprisingly enough), but Ulus 29 has to take my pick as best food of the upscale bar/lounge/restaurants.
For a more relaxed (and cheaper) traditional Turkish meal, try Hamdi's near the New Mosque. Their flatbreads and kebabs are delicious, and they have a beautiful rooftop deck overlooking the Golden Horn.
Other recommendations I didn't have a chance to try:
360 - restaurant/bar in center of town on the top floor of a residential building with great (360) views of all the key sites. Turns into a little bit of club after dinner.
Leyla/Sortie - huge open air place on the water with a number of restaurants there and a big club on the water (there is a good turkish place there too).
Mangerie - very cute little cafe and restaurant in Bebek (part of town on water with a marina where lots of smaller yachts are moored). Top floor of a building with great views. Good for lunch, coffee or dinner.
Lucca - similar to above. Also in bebek.
Iskele - very good traditional fish restaurant on the water.
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