Tuesday 18 November 2008

Nicaragua

GRANADA
Accommodation: The Hotel Terrasol is a delightful, well-located and reasonably price (~$30) hotel near the centre run by Victor and Katya (no, not Russian).
Tours: Local tour operators are not a bad way to see the sights, many of which require boats and or long day trips. Tierra Tour seems to be the dominant local player, but I also had a good experience with "Va Pues".
Food: The best meal I had was at Jardin de Orion, but "Imagine" looked to have fantastic food (& great margaritas). I found the recommended "Tercero Ojo" to be very disappointing.

Friday 14 November 2008

Belize

BELIZE CITY
Transportation: The taxi from the airport to Belize city costs a whopping US$25. You can negotiate this down a little, but be prepared.
The Caye Caulker Water Taxi Association runs a brisk and professional service to Cayes Caulker and Ambergris for ~$8 from the Marine Terminal in Belize City.

If you can avoid it, don't spend more time in Belize City than you absolutely have to.

CAYE CAULKER
Accommodation: Manuel runs the delightful Lena's south of the ferry pier, and has cute self-contained (no A/C) rooms for ~$25/night, right on the beach. For more glamorous digs, the Seaside Villas and the Seaside Cabana's both looked pretty nice.
Food & Nightlife: I had truly exceptional meals at Don Corleone's, and the Jolly Rodger cooked up a great lobster. Femi's is overrated, and I heard Agave has great (but expensive) food. It's hard to go wrong if you go to any place that looks like they cook their seafood fresh. I&I has a good rooftop bar (with nice breeze), and Oceanside is the only place for partying after ~11.30pm.

Thursday 6 November 2008

Guatemala

ANTIGUA
Accommodation: Casa Cristina offers reasonably priced ($20-$30) clean and well-appointed rooms in a good location.

TIKAL
Accommodation: Jungle Lodge provides the most luxurious accommodation within the park, but be prepared to pay over $100/night for a room.
Guides: Antonio at Jungle Lodge is a fantastic guide who has been around the ruins for ever. He's approx. $10/person for a group.

Sunday 21 September 2008

Wales

CARDIFF
Accommodation:
We were happy with the Park Inn in Cardiff City Centre (90GBP), but again, no included wireless.
Nightlife:
Cardiff gets inundated with hen's parties and other debauchery along St Mary's St, wade into this at your own risk, but it is pretty entertaining!

Friday 19 September 2008

Ireland

BELFAST
Accommodation:
Jury's Inn (69GBP) was another decent hotel with a good location, but no included wireless.
Tours:
We had a fantastic taxi tour of the West Belfast (previous warzone) area with Harpers Taxi Tours (Ken) for 25GBP: 9074-2711.

SLIGO
Accommodation:
Pearse Lodge (70E), was a fantastic B&B near the city centre. High quality accommodation and great service.
Food & Nightlife:
We had our best meal of the trip at Coach Lane, with a fantastic menu and excellent service.

GALWAY
Accommodation:
We had a perfectly adequate stay with a great location and free wireless at the Galway Arms Inn for ~80E.
Food & Nightlife:
We went a few miles out of town for a superb seafood dinner at O'Grady's on the Pier in Barna, which was worth the trip!

DINGLE
Accommodation:
The lovely couple at Kirrary provide a friendly, homey service for about 70E.
Food & Nightlife:
The various bars around the town that double as shoe or bike repair shops, etc, are a blast, and have a great crowd of locals singing and blarneying the night away.

CORK
Accommodation:
The Victoria Hotel (90E) is well-located and reasonably priced in the heart of the city.
Food & Nightlife:
We needed a break from Irish, but Gino's has mean pizza & gelato!

DUBLIN:
Accommodation:
The Maldron Hotel Parnell Square was our favourite hotel of the trip. Business-quality hotel with free wireless for 90E
Food & Nightlife:
We had a fantastic meal at Gruel, and enjoyed the Temple area, although there are certainly trendier places to be found.

Saturday 13 September 2008

England & Scotland

MANCHESTER
Accommodation:
Hotel Britannia (39GBP) provided clean, cheap accommodation with free wireless in the heart of the city.
Food & Nightlife:
Yeah right. All I can say is don't arrive in the city after 9pm and expect to be fed. There's an area called the Printworks that has tons of drunk university students and cheap drinks.

EDINBURGH
Accommodation:
The Ibis (96GBP) had a fantastic location, but really limited amenities.
Food & Nightlife:
We had a fantastic steak dinner at SmokeHouse. Surprisingly, Gordon's Trattoria on the Royal Mile also has great food. Opallounge has a good late-night scene, as does Shanghai.

Friday 29 August 2008

Greece

SANTORINI
Accommodation:
We stayed at the Galaxy Suites in Imerovigli, which I can’t recommend enough for a quiet romantic getaway (less so for a party weekend- stay in Fira). Their modern suites are perfect, each with private (well, not completely private) jacuzzi, room 17 is the best.
Food:
For walking distance of Imerovigli, we had great meals at Skyros Taverna (ask for table on lower level), and Blue Note. Kapellino’s has great pizza.
Activities:
Santorini is a perfectly managable size to rent a car, scooter, or 4-wheel bike & just cruise around the island. There are zillions of tavernas, villages, wineries, beaches, and churches to keep anyone occupied. We loved Red Beach for its amazing colour & clear water, and of course Oia is famous for its sunsets. Skoros Winery has a great caldera view.

Saturday 23 August 2008

St Petersburg

Accommodation:
The Pushka Inn is a great hotel with a fantastic location near the Hermitage. Its singles are around 4,000 RUB in high season.
Food & Nightlife:
Restaurant Restoran (traditional Russian), as is Aquarel (fusion, on a floating location). For bars on the off nights (Sun-Wed), the strip near Church on Spilled Blood (Depeche Mode, Bubble Bar, etc) are usually lively and friendly, but the crowd can be very young.

Thursday 14 August 2008

Moscow's Golden Ring

Transport:
A car and driver is an extremely good way to explore this region, which may cost around $200/day, inc. car, plus fuel. Else car rental, train, or tours are an option.
Accommodation & Restaurants:
The Hotel Sokol in Suzdal is a clean, new, and extremely well-located place for approx $90/night. The eatery inside the Kremlin has good food, and “Salmon & Coffee” has great ice-cream.

Friday 8 August 2008

Kazakhstan

ALMATY
Nightlife:
Gas/Petroleum have a good party on Wed nights. Da Freak, Crystal, Most, Fashion, Grand Opera are great clubs on weekend.

Wednesday 6 August 2008

Kyrgyzstan

BISHKEK
Accommodation:
Silk Road Lodge is well-appointed, but location isn’t great.
Nightlife:
Apparently Retro Metro has a good retro foam party on Monday nights. I’ll leave it to you to verify.

Saturday 2 August 2008

Uzbekistan

TASHKENT
Accommodation:

Recommend the Grand Mir (~$150) for location & amenities.
Food & Nightlife:

Al Dakhan does great Middle Eastern food, but we weren’t able to unearth anything resembling nightlife.

SAMARKAND
Accommodation:

Highly recommend the brand new Hotel Malika Prime (not to be confused with the old Malika) for excellent location.
Food:

Venezia does great pizza.

Monday 28 July 2008

Ukraine

ODESSA
Food:
Restaurants tend to be much better quality in the centre of town, rather than in Arcadia.
Accommodation:
Keep in mind Arcadia (where the beach and partying action is in the summer) is about 20mins from the centre of town, so depending on your interests, you’ll need to stay accordingly. My favourite in Arkadia is the Morskoy (~$100), but be warned, it’s RIGHT next to some of the biggest nightclubs, so unless you’re out partying, you won’t get much sleep.
Nightlife:
In Summer, all the action is at Arkadia. There are a strip of nightclubs along the beachfront. My pick is Ibiza, followed by Itaka, but you can find anything to suit your tastes.

KIEV
Accommodation:
As it’s difficult in Kiev to find reasonably-priced hotels, it is common to rent apartments. We had terrible experiences with Partner Guesthouse, who are an apartment firm, so do NOT recommend them.
Restaurants and Nightlife:
We had great meals at Shinook and Tsarskoe Tselo (both Ukranian), and Avalon is always a good bet for a decent meal and some drinks on an off-night.
Kiev has rocking nightlife, Buddha Bar has just opened for high-end cocktails (Safe is also good), Tsar and Barsky are top high-end clubs, and Patiba is still going strong for nightclubbing in a not quite so pasfusny environment.

LVIV
Accommodation:
We had good accommodation at Hotel Opera, a high-end pick.
Restaurants & Nightlife:
Partisan (“Kryvka”) bar is a must-do (but you’ll need a password at the door, and don’t try speaking Russian in there!)

POPOVKA
You’re kidding, right? ;-)

YALTA
Accommodation:
Highly recommend Hotel Bristol ($160) for amenities and location (& it’s duck-free (we checked)).

Sunday 20 July 2008

Armenia

Accommodation:
James & I liked the location and amenities of the Hotel Avia Trans, located really near the centre ($120), but be advised it doesn't have internet in the rooms as advertised.
Restaurants and Nightlife:
There are a bunch of fun places down in the riverside canyon (the Hrazdan), which are fun family places where everyone goes to eat lots of Armenian (read: Georgian/Russian/Azeri) food and get drunk and dance. It's a really fun scene, but shuts down by midnight. A place we liked was called Parvana. Apart from that, on a Friday night, we couldn't find any nightclubs, it's really a cafe scene, which is pleasant during the day, but quiet at night.
Transport:
Most convenient way to get to/from Yerevan from Tbilisi is by taxi, we paid $100 for the ~250km trip, including various sidetrips including Haghpat.

Friday 18 July 2008

Georgia

Accommodation:
In Tbilisi, James & I recommend the ATA Hotel (~$70/night) for it’s comfortable rooms, air-con, great value, and fantastic location near the Old City, but it’s not easy to find, and they don’t speak much English.
Restaurants & Nightlife:
When in Georgia- eat Georgian food! In Tbilisi, we had a great meal at “Shadow of Metekhi” on the deck overlooking the river. Another great place for Georgian dinner, drinks, or hookah was the roofdeck at Kalakuri. For a lively scene, wifi, and a decent glass of Georgian wine, try Kala bar in the Old City, on a pedestrian walkway surrounded by other lively restaurants and bars.

Tuesday 15 July 2008

Azerbaijan

Accommodation:
Baku is expensive, locals exploit the limited accommodation options and wealth gap to obtain high rates. In the Old City, we found Old City Inn to be comfortable and helpful, at ~$140/night for a double.
Restaurants:
Karavan Sera was an overrated but decent Azeri meal in the Old City. Beyrut provided a delicious Lebanese dinner.
Sights:
Be warned there are no tour agencies or operators in Baku, so sightseeing outside Baku needs to be arranged through independent negotiations with taxi drivers, or via hotels, which tends to be very expensive (we were quoted $350 to go to the mountain village, and $200 for car & driver to go to the main sights within 100km of Baku). I do NOT recommend renting a car and driving yourself, as local traffic is crazy, police are over-enthusiastic, and most sights are well off main roads and not signposted.

Sunday 13 July 2008

Romania

Accommodation:
Brasov: The Bella Muzica (www.bellamuzica.ro) is a delightful, recently renovated 3-star right on the main square (~70E/night). It's beautifully appointed and perfect for couples (which I wasn't).
Bucharest: Recommend the Hotel Rembrandt (www.rembrandt.ro), in the Historicla district (~80E/night). Again recently renovated, great service, and well-located for tourist stuff.
Restaurants and Nightlife:
Charme is a nice place for a drink and snacks, in the historic centre.
Fratelli is a hopping and packed nightclub with a good mix of friendly locals and reasonably upscale crowd. Music is a mix of recent pop mixes, but later in the night trends to local music and 80's hits.
Bamboo is a more "Moscow-style" nightclub, with the usual accoutrements (go-go dancers, lasers, girls in microskirts, local minigarchs, etc). Has great location on lake and has swimming pools.

Wednesday 9 July 2008

Istanbul

Accommodation:
Highly recommend the Zeynep Sultan (http://www.zeynepsultanhotel.com/) for 59E/night. Clean and friendly place with fantastic location (Next to Aya Sofia in Sultanahmet), but free wireless access doesn't reach all rooms. Also great is the Hippodrome Hotel (http://www.hippodromehotel.com/) for 65E/night, next to the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet. Zeynep has slightly better location.
Restaurants & Nightlife:
Reina has a fantastic "Modern Turkish" (Turkish+Mediterranean) menu right on the Bosporus, and turns into a happening (but young) nightclub most nights (particularly Tue/Thu/Fri/Sat). It also hosts a great Chinese restaurant, but both are pricey. Also pricey, on the water at Ortakoy, is Anjelika, with stunning open-air location, decent food, and good crowd (but more of a bar/restaurant, less of a club).

In a similar vein- Sunset has great drinks and view (especially at sunset, surprisingly enough), but Ulus 29 has to take my pick as best food of the upscale bar/lounge/restaurants.

For a more relaxed (and cheaper) traditional Turkish meal, try Hamdi's near the New Mosque. Their flatbreads and kebabs are delicious, and they have a beautiful rooftop deck overlooking the Golden Horn.

Other recommendations I didn't have a chance to try:
360 - restaurant/bar in center of town on the top floor of a residential building with great (360) views of all the key sites. Turns into a little bit of club after dinner.
Leyla/Sortie - huge open air place on the water with a number of restaurants there and a big club on the water (there is a good turkish place there too).
Mangerie - very cute little cafe and restaurant in Bebek (part of town on water with a marina where lots of smaller yachts are moored). Top floor of a building with great views. Good for lunch, coffee or dinner.
Lucca - similar to above. Also in bebek.
Iskele - very good traditional fish restaurant on the water.

Wednesday 4 June 2008

Thailand

Hotels:
Ko Pha Nang: Highly recommend the Sunrise Resort on the beach. Great location and good cafe below.
Bangkok: the Dream Hotel in Bangkok (http://www.dreambkk.com/) is fantastic 5-star value in the heart of Sukhumvit. Suggest booking through other websites to get their sub-$100/night prices

Wednesday 28 May 2008

Australia

This is a tough one.
Hotels:
Love Lizard Island, Silky Oaks Lodge (all at www.voyages.com.au), the Sheraton Mirage at Port Douglas is well past its prime and isn't great value, but does have an excellent location.
Restaurants:
Sydney: Tetsuya's in Sydney is exceptional (and expensive). My old favourites include Montezume Crow's Nest (Mexican), O Galo Portuguese Chicken Crow's Nest (Burgers), Bravo Crows Nest (Italian and gelato), Arthurs Pizza (renamed "Love Supreme"), pizza, Paddington. For views it's hard to go past the Watson's Bay Hotel for fish & chips, but Cucinetta in hunters Hill is really good italian and views. The Oaks in Neutral Bay is a fanastic location for a genuine pub meal.
Port Douglas: Salsa is my favourite restaurant in the region.

Saturday 10 May 2008

Bhutan

Guides:
We also used Getaway for this tour. Our guide Ugyen was extremely knowledgable and passionate about his country and culture. He also loves butterflies and orchids. Would recommend him (bum_ugyen@hotmail.com).

Note about Bhutan: If you're planning a trip to Bhutan, I recommend you spend some time researching the places you want to go to, and have a tour agency (required, unfortunately) to tailor a trip (and the accommodation locations) to your interests. I think this is the best way to avoid the Disneyland/North Korea sense that I found in Bhutan.

Sunday 4 May 2008

Nepal

Guides:
Getaway (http://www.trekking-in-nepal.com) runs a good operation, we were happy with their responsiveness and service. Our guide Dawa (dawasherpa_2007@yahoo.com) was very competent, always friendly and responsible. Would definitely recommend him (although his English isn't perfect).
Hotel:
Yak & Yeti (http://www.yakandyeti.com/) is a decent hotel (believe it's the best located in town- Hyatt is way out of the centre), but it's past its prime.

Thursday 17 April 2008

Kamchatka

Restaurants:
Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky: Decent dining options are limited. Korea House is supposed to be the best in the city. We liked the Pizza joint in the mall.
Nightlife:
Best and fanciest club was "Nebo" ("Cloud"), located in Yelizovo (Fri/Sat). "Sports Club" was great on Wednesday.